Buenos Aires
From Colonia, Uruguay we headed for
Le Plata
We tried no to hang around in Le Plata too long, but by the time all the admin had been done (3 days – extremely speedy), and we had done some shopping, it was 5 days later. Time really does pass differently when you are cruising.
Then into Buenos Aires – the trip there was up the coast and took about 5 hours, we reached Buenos Aires at sunset 
where we had to wait for a swing bridge to be opened – yes, especially for us. We felt very important sailing into Puerto Madero – right in the centre of Buenos Aires, even stopping the traffic for our arrival!
Puerto Madero yacht club was very much the larney type of yacht club (they aren’t all!) and we enjoyed having a nice secure mooring for the boat, good facilites, and being right in the centre of Buenos Aires. We were able to go and grab a cup of coffee just
It is always strange when you finally arrive in a destination that you have been dreaming about. Buenos Aires definitely lived up to all the hype. We spent 2 weeks in the centre of the city, and still only managed to see some of the endless list of sights the city has to offer.
Gaucho Dancing
Wherever you go in Buenos Aires, it seems there is some type of festivity going on, and to accompany the festivities are usually either a tango show, gaucho dancing or another variation on that theme – if those are not the actual main attraction! What does vary is the quality of the shows, and we were fortunate enough to happen on some great gaucho dancing.
We had ventured out for a stroll along the boardwalk at the Costanero der Sur – it is a great place to walk your dog, hang and watch the crowd go by, entertain the kids, enjoy a prego roll, ala Argentian style and sip on a freshly squeezed orange juice. 
We were managing to watch the crowd, entertain Lucy, and so we thought we had better try our hand at enjoying the local cuisine. This proved not too difficult at all, as we all guzzled down an extremely succulent and tasty slice of Argentinian beef on an enormous fresh roll, filled with all sorts of treats like chimichurri – (which is the South American style peri peri herb and oil mixture which spices up anything and everything!) We wandered along the promenade, replete from munching our South American carnivore friendly lunch, enjoying the sites.
We arrived at a square where we were lucky enough to have chosen a day the gaucho dancers were showing off their skills. With skirts swirling and boots stamping, the dancers threw their energies into the music, and it made us want to do the same.
We were fortunate in that when we returned to the same spot a few days later we find that although the costumed gauchos has gone home, there was a relay of dancers from the public doing the same routine. 
I went and asked if I could have a go, which they were very happy to oblige me with, little did they realize how much entertainment they were going to get when this silly gringo girl tried a hand (it was more like three feet) at their traditional dance. 
They were a great crowd, and despite my ineptitude to pick up their steps, I had a great time and no doubt did the rest of the crowd judging by their belly laughing at the site of my attempts.
Bird spotting
Next to the promenade where we saw the gaucho dancing, there is a huge protected wetland area that is teeming with birds of all types. The wetland borders the
The bird life in South America is extraordinary, there are firstly just so many birds here, and they are just so different to the South African birds, that even the plainest most common bird here is a fresh treat for eyes that have been looking at the same birds for decades!
Tango Show
For my birthday (which was incidentally in January – so about 6 months ago) Andrew promised to take me to a tango show in Buenos Aires, at that stage we thought we were about 6 weeks, not 6 months away from arriving here. So when we finally arrived here, a tango show was a definite on the list of treats that cost a bit more, but that we had to do while in BA. You can see tango on every street corner just about, 
but as with all these things, the quality varies enormously, and if you want the real deal, a quality show with dinner and all, there are again limitless options – so how to choose the right one? We were fortunate to meet an extremely friendly and helpful Buenos Airean fellow sailor by the name of Fabian who helped us out with a multitude of information including recommending some different tango shows and what their pros and cons were. We decided on a middle of the road show that was not too touristy, none of the dancers were professionals, and also a show that was popular with the locals.
The show was held in an old dance hall that had had its’ hey day many years ago (I was going to try and guess what year – but I have no idea), I suppose it must have been about 70 or 80 years old at the least. There were old chandeliers hanging from the double volume ceilings, which were coated with the stained yellow of old paint and cigarette smoke. There were about 25 tables surrounding the dance floor, of which about half were occupied. Mostly with locals, although there was the odd tourist (i.e. us) thrown in. It also appeared that this was a regular spot for some of the visitors, as they knew the dancers by name – which boded well for the evening’s entertainment. The walls of this enormous old hall sported mirrors every
The actual show was fantastic, the dancers, as I mentioned not professional, but most of them certainly professional level. There was a collection of dances – lots of tango, some other…. I have no idea what exactly, and then some more gaucho dancing, but at a rather different tempo than what we had seen in the street performances.
It was also great to see the collection of dancers, one couple in particular defying all normal dancing etiquette. She was slim, fit and completely looked the part, while he was definitely not! But they looked amazing, with this larger than life dance lead whisking his waif of a partner around, they looked like they had been made to dance together, it was an extraordinary match, but a match it most definitely was.
The other dancers were far more typical, and spun and slid around the dance floor like only tango dancers can. Leaving us captured in the romance of the tango, and with no doubt that this city’s soul beats to a tango march, we left the tango hall and wandered home through the streets of Buenos Aires, which at around midnight - was just waking up for the night.
Downtown Buenos Aires has a colorful and now very touristy area called 
Now the few houses have become a few streets and are very picturesque, Artists tout their wares, selling everything from earrings to paintings and woven garments of all shapes and sizes. We enjoyed a choripan (South American boerewors roll) while listening to a one man band in someones back garden churrasco (braai) joint. To finish off the afternoon we popped into a local alfajore (chocolate and dulce de leche biscuit speciality) shop to enjoy another cup of good hot chocolate and an alfajore.
San Telmo
One Sunday we took a walk to the San Telmo Antiques Faire – we had been told it was really interesting and not to be missed – but – I mean how many markets can you see – surely this will just be the same with a few more old things perhaps? Well in short, no – it was not just like any other market at all! It was unreal, we had stepped into another world. The first corner of the market that we arrived, a pair of tango dancers classed up the pavement. A classic start to a classic morning, we walked past a band with members that could not be more Argentinian- all dark skinned, dark haired, wearing wooly native knit jerseys and hats, playing wooden flutes, lutes and guitars – with a piano snuck in on the side just to add a bit of depth to the performance.
The main square was filled with proper old stuff - magical soda canisters, every colour you can imagine – red, yellow, blue and green glass bottles, with the sun shining through. Old telephones, collections of dolls, silver spoons, china and porcelain, chandeliers, hats, plates, toy soldiers, saddlery and every other type of old relic and tac you can imagine. The different thing about the tac was that it really old and genuine and I have not been anywhere I have seen such a magnitude of really old antiques ever. Generally all this stuff has gone, and somewhere like Europe, where you might find a bit, but only in small collections in little antique shops.
We finally walked away from the square and thought that we had seen the best of what there was to seen, but instead we walked off down into another sensory overload– a street filled with every type of art and craft you can imagine. We stopped to listen to one man and his guitar, he was a wonderful elderly gentleman – done up in his Sunday best, out busking for the pure enjoyment of it. Lucy took a complete fancy to him, and him to Lucy, he then sang a song just for Lucy and encouraged her to pluck a few strings on his guitar, which was wonderfully sweet, and so typical of the attitude towards children in Argentina.
Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of San Telmo as I was filming – so you will have to let your imagination do the rest!
Frigate Sarmiento
We visited the Frigate Sarmiento, which is an old and now restored Frigate which lives in Puerto Madryn, Lucy loved clambering around and it was quite extraordinary to be in the room where all the hammocks used to hang and imagining them all sleeping next to each other rocking to and fro. The most interesting thing we found on the ship was a the memorial to the ship’s dog – which was the actual dog itself – which has been stuffed and preserved in a glass case.
The walk there took us past the dramatic swing bridge which was worth a snap.
Tigre
I wrote a little about Tigre in the last post, but there is definitely a little more to say – so here goes.
Tigre is a town that – hence it’s name borders on the Tigre River. It is the main access portal to the Delta. The Delta is a huge area and is accessed by boat only. There is a fleet of river taxi’s – well more like busses as they seat around 60 - that serve the Delta. 
People in crafts of all shapes and sizes to get around, and sitting on our mooring we did a lot of people watching as the people of all shapes and sizes matched or often did not match their crafts.
Rowing is a huge sport here and has a long history. Every few hundred metres you pass another character filled, big, old building. 
The clubs are still very active and you all ages partake. Each club has metal tracks to take the boats down to the water on trolleys. 
We had a magic moment when standing at the club jetty when an eight came sliding past – quite unususal in itself – but what was more unusual was that the average age must have been 75, and I am absolutely not exaggerating. Their timing was perfect and the boat going along a lick, though they were not too preoccupied to wave at Lucy, who waved and blew kisses back at them!
They have an extraordinary market here, which is enormous – called the Puerto dos Frutos, as it used to be the main fruit and veg hub where everyone used to come to sell their wares. Now it is more touristy, and enormous, you can find anything you want – from a sheep skin to selection of fine herbs, semi precious stones, Chinese plastic toys and garden implements. Everything you need alongside everything you don’t!
We had quite a trouble getting into Tigre and while we were there the water disappeared completely. Apparently this only happens once a year – we just happened to pick our timing really well. The water was so low that there was light coming up through the heads outlet pipe – which in layman terms – that is the outlet pipe for the toilet – which normally is well and truly underwater. The boat was well and truly grounded with the keel wedged in the mud, and we just hoped it was not getting damaged.
While we were in
Andrew had carefully measured the dimensions, to double check it was the right size, but that did not ensure easy fitting- but with a bit of chiseling, chipping, sawing and hammering (sometimes of the new stove – so it had to go in, it definitely could not be returned) oh yes, and needless to say a small amount of swearing from the installer – the stove finally came to rest in it’s new home.. Looking very smart and ready to cook up a storm, I am sure we are going to enjoy using a proper stove again!
Tigre Delta
While we were waiting for the water to return, Mum, Lucy and I decided to take a tour to the White Cat – which was a restaurant in the Delta itself. We caught one of the water taxi/busses that we had been admiring so much, and were whisked along to our destination. The delta is fascinating, along the River Lujan, where huge hulks of abandoned ships litter the waters edge.
The houses range from people’s smart holiday houses to ramshackle favalla style shacks. The water taxi’s fly along and I managed to get drenched by one going the other way as the swell crossed our boat and the wave crashed in our open window, which created much amusement to the rest of the more knowledgeable passengers.
Recolleta Cemetry
We visited the Recolleta cemetery, which is fascinating. The most beautiful tomb being of a young woman and her dog , very sad as she died at the age of 26, of what I am unsure. The cemetery is very old, and very large, filled with cats and coffins, it is really eiry walking the alleys, filled with coffins and casting your mind back to try get a glimpse of these past people of another life.
Buenos Aires Zoo
We visited the Buenos Aires Zoo, which was mainly for Lucy. She had a great time, and enjoyed the swans and the goats most of all – not the elephants and the lions! We also managed to find her a ride on a pony as we departed, which really rounded of the day perfectly!
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